A third-generation Greek, Alexandre Cozzika was born and raised in France but of Greek parents. In the summers, he came to Greece for vacations. So he has grown up with a Greek mentality, although he doesn’t speak much Greek.
We discovered the Yorgios Deli in the 10th arrondissement, in the heart of Paris and spoke with the Greek-French, and he shared his vision and activities.
How it all started
From a young age, he remembered that his father had always been looking for the best Greek product on offer. And he didn’t always find it. The search was difficult in France—the big brands can be found, but smaller—and more notable—producers are impossible.
The “Yorgios” brand came from his father, who was always looking for good Greek products. Beyond that, however, this name is closely associated with Greece. It is a very common and well-known name.
How did this all come about – The four-month trip to Greece
Alexandre worked for ten years in Food and Beverage Marketing. This gave him enough familiarity with French products, but at the same time, it troubled him and always made him think and search for Greek products.
Before opening the store, he travelled to Greece to look for small Greek producers who followed his own logic and philosophy. This is how he found producers from Crete, Peloponnese, Evia, and Parnassos. He got to know them closely, then with the help of a local, he learned their story so that he could then tell it to the French and also know where each product comes from.
The producers he approached were very positive about working with him. After all, if someone didn’t—or couldn’t—work with him, he went to the next one. The only problems he faced initially and afterwards were the bureaucracy between the two countries and the prices for transporting the products, which made his work difficult.
The problem has actually gotten worse recently, as prices are constantly increasing.
His relations with Greece
His father was born in Cairo but has relatives in Athens. His mother was born in Casablanca but originally from Mytilene. Alexandre was born in France but spent summers with his grandmother in Greece when he was little.
Then, as he grew up, his grandmother passed away, and the visits to Greece became less frequent. However, as he told me, he grew up completely Greek at heart.
“Although I have never actually lived in Greece, for me, it is my home. The food, the lifestyle, the customs: I love it all. After all, I grew up in a microcosm as a Greek living abroad.”
His mother cooked a lot in the Greek way. For example, they often ate horta at home, although finding good ones was quite difficult. But he was looking for them. And when he couldn’t find them, he adapted Greek recipes to the products he found in France.
The concept behind the deli – The products
Alexandre is mainly addressed to French people and not particularly to Greeks. It aims to introduce the French to authentic Greek products they will not find elsewhere.
In addition to packaged products, the deli also offers some dishes, either completely Greek or somewhat more adapted to seasonality and the availability of ingredients. For example, you can find tzatziki with radishes instead of cucumbers.
After all, fresh fruits and vegetables are an issue for Alexandre. It is difficult to find good products in Paris, and with the legislation and taxation, it is very difficult to import from Greece. Sometimes, he can find lemons or oranges from Greece in small quantities.
When he explained that all the products were handmade, many people returned to the deli again and again.
Has he been asked for products that he does not have? Yes, sometimes, as it does not bring the most classic products from Greece. For example, a lot of people ask him for a halva that he doesn’t have, and he might have to look for it at some point.
They have pastitsio, soutzoukakia, avgolemono soup and… orange pie!
He is in the kitchen himself, experimenting with recipes he has learned from his family. The menu is simple, and the options are few.
He makes sure that the products from the collaborating Greek producers are used in the dishes. In general, you will find traditional dishes, such as pastitsio and moussaka, as well as soutzoukakia and avgolemono soup.
He generally makes his recipes as low-fat as possible, both savoury and sweet, because, in the wider area, many offices come for a lunch break, so they don’t want to eat something heavy.
In addition to the savoury meals, you will also find some classic and beloved sweets, such as the orange pie, in a lighter form, with as little added sugar as possible, less syrup, and, of course, real oranges.
Alexandre likes experimenting with his ingredients and playing a little with the traditional recipes he learned at home. So you can occasionally find rice pudding with poached pears or chocolate mousse with olives from Kalamata.
Cheese pies and frappe
When I asked him if we would find cheese pie and frappe at the deli, his answer was positive. The coffee is from a specific producer, not a well-known brand, while the cheese pie is handmade.
They have eight different recipes for cheese pie, in variations – with the addition of, for example, zucchini. The phyllo is not handmade but sourced from a Turkish producer in Paris. He did not find Greek phyllo in France, and bringing it from Greece was complicated.
The 10th arrondissement in Paris
Why did he choose the 10th apartment? Besides the fact that luck certainly played a role in this particular choice, the 10th is an apartment with many companies, quite central and not too touristy.
At the same time, in the past, it was the place where the Greek merchants of leather cloths had shops. So, there was also a connection with the Greek community.
The various events
They regularly organise themed evenings, inviting people to try various products based on the chosen theme. For example, recently, in collaboration with a French winegrower, they had an evening pairing Greek wines with French cheeses.
Another evening was dedicated to saganaki and its various forms in Greek cuisine. Alexandre remembers yet another hotdog night, during which sausages from a small Kalamata producer were used.
Other plans: He does some evenings where he cooks in the evenings, offering a simple menu (starter-main-dessert) and talks to people about both the history of the shop and his relationship with the producers.
As for its relationship with the rest of the Greek grocers in Paris? They have a very good relationship and sometimes work together if necessary. There are also some weekend events that promote Greek products.
Info: 31, rue d’Hauteville, 75010, Paris, www.yorgios.fr
Niki-Maria Koskina is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
READ MORE: HELLINIKON: The Greek deli in Milan that introduced Italians to kourabiedes and melomakarona.