In the minds of most, Messinia is associated with the famous coastal landscapes of the southern Peloponnese on the shores of the Messinian Gulf and the Ionian Sea—with resorts, Instagrammable beaches, the magnificent Venetian castle of Methoni, and cities like Kalamata, which are increasingly popular as summer holiday destinations. However, Messinia also has a very interesting interior with rugged natural beauty and wild landscapes.
Only a few have explored Messinia’s interior, such as the villages in the highlands of southern Taygetus and the magical waterfalls of Polylimnio.
Of course, it was once considered a well-kept secret, known only to those who had thoroughly hiked the Messinian landscape. Now, however, this enchanting complex of the Polylimnio waterfalls and lakes has emerged as an internationally renowned destination, attracting crowds of visitors during the summer season.
A gorge with enchanting, watery beauty
Many of those who have seen Polylimnio tend to refer to it as the “Blue Lake”. When mentioning Polylimnio, though, we are basically referring to a canyon, which, due to the distinct geomorphology of the area and the generally uneven ground with rocks and trees, has an abundant of running water – which remains cool even in the hottest months of the Greek summer – spread out in a network of scattered small and medium-sized lakes, forming waterfalls.
In turn, the intense presence of mountain waters favours the growth of lush vegetation, resulting in the rocky landscape projecting green and colour combinations that effortlessly impress the eye and the senses. Even beyond the immediately distinguishable plant landscape, olive groves thrive.
From the point where you park your car in the village of Charavgi (below you will find more precise instructions on how to get there), access to the first lakes is easily ensured through a small path with wooden bridges.
It is no coincidence that the old legends of the area claim Polylimnio was the home of fairies, who would sing and scare away those who dared to enter their lands, knocking them into the waters.
The route lasts around 20 to 30 minutes and, at the beginning, is quite passable. Further down, however, there are some tricky spots where metal supports are installed to help you balance as you climb.
If you are a family with small children, remember that they will have a hard time, and you will need to hold them.
The first of the 15 lakes you will see here is called “Tou Italou” (the Italian), and it is not the only one with a special name: there is also the inaccessible Mavrolimna, the Black Lake with its small, idyllic waterfall, and the lake “of Stathoula” – a reference to the tragic fate of Stathoula Theriou, who is said to have drowned with her children trying to escape from the Ottomans during the Greek War of Independence.
Most, of course, aim for Lake Kadis, the largest and deepest in Polylimnio, but also the one with the longest and most impressive waterfall. To reach it, however, you’ll have to continue past Tou Italou, passing steep cliffs and large, slippery stones – it’s here, after all, that you’ll encounter the aforementioned metal supports.
However, it is worth it, especially if you plan to swim in the waterfall’s cold, deep green and refreshing waters. It is also the point that will give you the most magnificent view of the water network of this very special area.
Next to where the waterfall falls majestically, you will see ropes and a ladder that will help you rise 10 to 15 metres, reaching a rock, from where you can make the most spectacular dive. It is safe, as at this point, the depth of the water is deep, so you are not at risk of injury.
The only general precautions you should take when visiting Polylimnio are not to scare the water snakes that occasionally come here and not to step on any of the large crabs in the lakes.
How to get to Polylimnio
Polylimnio is located between Messina and Pylos in the village of Charavgi. It is administratively under the Municipal Unit of Voufrados of the Municipality of Messina.
Although it is not immediately visible due to the special geomorphology of the terrain, it is easily accessible from Kalamata, 33 kilometres away. So, estimate that, by car, you will reach the trailhead within 40 to 50 minutes of driving.
Arriving in the village of Kazarma, the closest to Charavgi, you will see a relevant sign that will guide you to the final stage of the route.
As we said before, in the summer, Polylimnio tends to be particularly crowded, as its reputation has spread both in the rest of Greece and abroad. This year, it was also in 22nd place on the world list of the famous Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best awards, awarded annually by Trip Advisor.
Therefore, you will enjoy its quietest in early autumn or the second half of spring. However, it remains approachable at any time of the year – even in winter, as long as the weather is good.
Photos: Michalis Papanikolaou/Eurokinissi
READ MORE: Kaminakia: A wonderful beach in Astypalaia.