Malagousia: Why was it called the "Cinderella of Greek wine grapes"?

Malagousia was once called the "Cinderella of Greek wine grapes," and not without reason.

At the end of the 1960s, Malagousia was little known, and only a few vines survived scattered in vineyards in Nafpaktos and Messolonghi. At that time, the Wine Institute acquired some grafts of the variety through Charalambos Kotini, agronomist of the Ministry of Agriculture and creator of the Greek Viticultural Atlas.

From them, an experimental vineyard was created in Porto Karras, with the collaboration of the then director of the Institute, Stavroulas Kourakos, and a professor at the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Vassilis Logothetis, who had undertaken the installation of the huge vineyard of 4,500 acres of the Estate.

The first vinifications showed its dynamism and gifts, and the plantings expanded. Vangelis Gerovasiliou, the oenologist of the Porto Carras Estate, also planted it on his estate in the early 1980s.

Grafts were distributed to other winegrowers, and that's how Malagousia went from obscurity to glory.

Today, based on ELSTAT data, it is considered the fastest growing variety in Greek vineyards in planted areas, going from 1,820 acres in 2010 to 5,340 in 2015, to exceed 7,500 acres in 2020, marking an increase of around 41%!

Its geographical spread is equally impressive, as it extends from the Dodecanese Islands to Greece's northern borders.

According to Professor Manolis Stavrakakis, Malagousia is an early white variety with many clones, which differ significantly from each other mainly in terms of aromatic intensity. Although lively and productive, it is particularly sensitive to many vine diseases and viruses.

In general, it produces wines with rich aromatic potential, enough volume, and acidity, characteristics that vary according to the growing region, the soil, and the clone. As a rule, the dry and fresh versions are the best, but we also have nice samples that have been lightly barrel-aged and orange or sweet versions.

As the aromatic intensity increases and the taste becomes fuller, they are a great wine to accompany poultry or other white meats cooked with herbs and spices, while I personally love it with Indian or Lebanese dishes.

Andreas Androulidakis is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos. 

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