Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi in Poros: A picturesque bay with calm waters in the shadow of a historic monastery

Swim at a beautiful beach on the Greek island and combine it with a visit to an important attraction.

Poros maintains its island charm in all seasons. Thanks to its easy access by liner or speedboat from Piraeus or by boat from Galata, Poros is, of course, an ideal nearby escape for a lovely weekend.

After enjoying your walk in the picturesque Chora, it is worth devoting some of your time to getting to know the other interesting sights of the island and, of course, for a swim in the clear blue waters of its beaches.

On the south-eastern coast of Poros, immediately after the cosmopolitan Askeli with its large beach and multitude of restaurants and accommodations, the road through a fork leads downhill to a small, peaceful beach that takes its name from the Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi, which brings you the uphill part of the road.

First, follow this ascending route from a verdant ravine to one of the island's most important historical and religious monuments, which has been in operation since 1720. Built only 4 km from Chora and overlooking the picturesque creek below the slope, this monastery is an excellent example of monastic architecture and a peaceful retreat in the rich nature that surrounds it.

The contributions of the island's inhabitants and the funding from the Metropolitan of Athens, Iakovos II, secured the resources for constructing the Monastery, which was built on the site of an older monastery, probably from the 14th century.

A century later, during the Greek War of Independence, the Monastery was a place of the fighters secret meetings, organising naval battles from there.

That is why even today, in its surroundings, visitors can see the graves of the sailors of the Greek independence struggle, Manolis Topazis from Hydra and Nikolis Apostolis from Psara.

A few years later, Ioannis Kapodistrias housed the first Ecclesiastical School of Greece here. Classes officially started on October 30, 1830, with 15 students.

The works of ecclesiastical art that adorn the interior of the monastery's church are also particularly noteworthy. Before entering the beautiful dome-topped basilica, notice on the outer south wall of the chancel the sundial dating from around 1820.

The eye is drawn to the impressive wood-carved iconostasis inside the church, which contrasts with the black-and-white geometric floor. The iconostasis, with its rich carvings, is said to have been created in Cappadocia in the 17th century.

At the same time, it could also come from the famous Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi Baloukli in Istanbul.

Be that as it may, it is a famous work surrounded by equally remarkable images, such as that of the Zoodochos Pigi, painted in 1650 in Venice by the great Cretan painter Theodoros Poulakis, the Virgin Mary of Amolyntos, also by the great Cretan iconographer Emmanuel Tzanes, or that which was donated to the monastery as a sacred relic by the Greek War of Indepence hero, Admiral Andreas Miaoulis.

A particularly moving story is connected with another famous icon of the Virgin Mary, created by the Italian painter Raffaello Ceccoli in 1853. It is believed that he gave the mother of Christ the form of his sick daughter, who had visited the monastery with him and who, when she died, was buried in the churchyard, where one can still see her tomb today.

Before leaving behind the high walls of the Monastery, enjoy the magnificent view of the green hillside and let your gaze wander to the deep blue waters of Monastiri Beach, which is often an anchorage for impressive boats.

Leaving the monastery, a refreshing stop is required at the traditional Melistakto cafe, next to the historic marble spring that gave the Monastery its name. The water that springs from the lion's head is considered therapeutic.

The small, white church next to it is jointly dedicated to Saints Anargyros and Saint Panteleimon.

If you visit the Monastery in the morning, the homemade cheese pie and the handmade lemonades or sour cherries of the Melistaktos cafe are the ideal breakfast.

Otherwise, try the fresh, homemade sweets, like the light lemon pie with lemon zest, the fluffy ekmek and walnut pie, and the musky galaktoboureko, or indulge in the homemade spoon sweets—especially the delicious sour cherry—that will go perfectly with your coffee inside in the coolness of the shady plane trees.

Everything is made on-site by the immovable Mrs Nektaria and served with a smile by her husband, Mr Meletis, who will also give you helpful information about the island.

It is time for a refreshing swim and relaxation at the small, picturesque beach you have been looking down on.

With most of it covered by colourful umbrellas and comfortable sunbeds that can be reserved, a well-organised beach bar-canteen offering cool drinks, cocktails, hearty snacks, and showers available for everyone, all you have to do is enjoy swimming in crystal clear water and the fantastic view that reaches the coast of Peloponnese.

If you look carefully, you might even make out the fort built on a small island, which is now a historical monument.

Built in 1827 as a fort to protect and control the port of Poros, it has a history since Miaoulis attacked and destroyed most of the Greek fleet in the conflict between the Hydra and Kapodistrias.

Uninhabited today, this is another interesting item on the list of many essential attractions in the idyllic Poros.

Arietta Pouliou is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.

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