A pocket-sized island that promises to relax you in an amazing green environment bathed by unique blue-green waters.
Othonoi is a small green islet to the northwest of Corfu, about 12 nautical miles from it, and is quite mountainous. It has an area of 10 sq km and a length of 5.6 km, which means that if it was flat, you could cross it in about an hour.
It is believed that this was the island of the nymph Calypso, who kept Odysseus there for seven years before escaping and resuming his journey to Ithaca.
The island has several small settlements, but essentially, there are two organised ones: Ammos, the port, and Chorio, perched on one of the hills in the island's interior.
Here, life is simple.
From the afternoon until late at night, the heart of the island beats in the square at the port, which is filled with children. Next to it, the adults, in groups, chat with beers and sometimes sing softly with a guitar.
This is how your holidays will be: relaxed and carefree. In the morning, have coffee and homemade breakfast because there is no oven here, and then go straight to the beaches to swim into wonderful waters that are obviously not organised.
A few are accessible by road, while most can be reached by boat, but they all have breathtaking waters that you will want to dive into. It is no coincidence that the island is surrounded by sailboats in the summer.
The closest and easily accessible Molos beach at the port is sandy and crystal clear. Fyki in the north has green slopes and is an ideal destination for snorkelers, but the most impressive is Lefki Ammos, with its huge white vertical rocks and turquoise waters.
Next to it is a small cave that is said to belong to the nymph Calypso.
A little further up, you will find Xylosermos, a great beach and a perfect spot to watch the sunset if you have a boat. Both beaches can be reached by boat.
Kapsolinari, with its crystal clear waters and green background in the north, and Kanula and Kontoskies in the east, which you can also reach by boat, are also beautiful.
You will return to the port for lunch at noon, and after the necessary siesta, the afternoon is the time for walks. The island has wonderful paths through green nature between ancient olive groves, tall cypresses, oleanders, figs, thymes, and sages.
In the east, you can reach the Venetian castle and the 1872 lighthouse, which was the second tallest in Greece. The lighthouse, which took its current form after the Second World War, was destroyed by the Germans.
If you wake up early, seeing the sunrise from the spot is worth seeing. However, for sunset, you will take the path above the beach of Xylosermi.
The sunset from here is one of the best you've ever seen. But it would be best if you also went to the stone cross of 1833 in Kalodiki, built according to the locals as a tribute to the inhabitants of the island who were massacred by the famous pirate Barbarossa in 1537.
In the evening, go to the port with the locals, exchanging stories with wine and appetisers if you are sociable, or with a book on your balcony in the absolute quiet of the island.
Accommodation
Don't expect many luxuries or options on the island. As we said here, life is simple, and the island is small. There are some apartments and hotels, and you can find very nice proposals on short-term rental platforms.
Calypso Hotel: Hotel built on a hill overlooking the harbour (Ammos, 2663072114)
Palman Othonoi Apartments: These are simple but neat apartments with equipped kitchens (Ammos, 6976862451).
Food
Mouruna's Hangout is the only tavern in the Village that serves only souvlakia, potatoes and salad; it is simple and honest. (Village, 6981150090)
Antonis: you will find fish, seafood and meat. (Sand, 2663079002)
New York Restaurant: Greek food, roasts of the hour, shrimp pasta, etc. (Sand, 2663071581)
Voula Akrivaki is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
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