Panigyri is a culinary experience in Fira, Santorini. It offers dishes paired with extra virgin olive oil.
What is an Agrinio chef obsessed with Greek food doing in Santorini?
Logically, the answer would be "nothing," but Fanis Maikantis started working in fine-dining restaurants in Santorini, fell in love with a lovely local girl, and decided to drop anchor and live on the island.
It was not easy, nor was it simple, to convince the landowner to give it to him for a vegetable garden. But he did it and started clearing, planting, and cultivating. In the winter, when everyone relaxes after a busy summer, he ploughed and ploughed.
"I'm a cook"
The first thing he built at Panigiri was the courtyard, with tables spread out under the shade of the trees. Lights, cement mortar, and metal chairs create a truly Cycladic feeling.
The wood-fired oven bakes meat, bread, and paximadia, and the waiters move quickly among the customers. Fanis sneaks glances from the large kitchen counter at the customers and their expressions.
"I am a cook," he said. What I care about is that my client eats properly and well, but above all deliciously, that they are happy and leave not only with a full stomach but with a full soul."
Olive oil bar
Yes, for Maikantis, Greek extra virgin olive oil does not have the support it deserves. He believes each dish and each ingredient should be highlighted with a different olive oil since different notes, aromas, and flavours suit each dish.
He proves this by serving his dishes with different extra virgin olive oils. It is an experience not to be missed.
And what are we going to eat?
The sourdough bread is topped with nutritious Agrini olives and extra virgin olive oil. Standouts include marinated mackerel with greens and bergamot vinegar, veal carpaccio with pickled jackfruit, and rabbit croquettes with stew sauce.
I continued my dining experience with cod and tomato balls, seared octopus, and fava biscuit before having my main. An exquisite lamb with "burnt" eggplant and gruyere cream, although many times I have eaten the fish, forgetting the meat.
Would I go again?
I go to Santorini every time. It's value for money at 40-50 euros per person, with a great wine list and deep, earthy deliciousness.
Info: Agios Athanasios, Fira, tel.: 22860 22595
Nana Darioti is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.Â
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