Karya: The picturesque, green village of Argolis

It is a quiet village and easily accessible from Athens, about 1 hour and 40 minutes.

Karya in Argolis was quietly away from the tourist spotlight. But this changed at the beginning of the 21st century when the village was chosen for the outdoor filming of the television series «Το Καφέ της Χαράς» (The Cafe of Joy), which became one of the most popular and beloved comedy series of the time.

Since then, many have wondered where the legendary "Kolokotronitsi" was located—in the series, it was supposedly in Arcadia. The information did not take long to become known (especially after the internet became more widespread), locating it in the Peloponnese and the mountains of the neighbouring Argolis.

In time, this publicity helped the village itself. It may no longer be called "Arachova of the Argolis," as it was tried to be marketed for a time (in an obvious exaggeration) since it has retained its quiet, picturesque profile.

Nonetheless, quite a few old houses have been renovated in the last decade. Locals who wanted to renew their relationship with their roots or visitors enchanted by the green natural landscape sought to acquire a holiday home easily accessible from Athens.

A quiet village in the green

Karya is built at an altitude of 700 metres on the eastern slopes of Artemisium - a mountain that received its name from the goddess Artemis, who was worshipped at its peak in ancient times.

According to the 2011 census, it has 165 inhabitants. Nowadays, therefore, it is a small village, but historically, it has a different route, as it was an old capital village in the wider region, where around 1,700 people lived until the 1950s. Since then, however, it has declined, mainly due to mass migration to the urban centres or the permanent settlement of livestock farmers in their old winter fields.

Oral traditions preserve that the first inhabitants came here as refugees from Acarnania, which is likely related to the latter's rebellion against the Ottomans (1684), in the context of the 6th Venetian-Turkish War.

Initially, they settled higher in Artemisio and further west, but then they moved lower (building the village of Malevos) before ending up in the current location. The census taken by the Venetians in 1700 shows that the process was almost complete by then.

Modern Karya is a village with vineyards and olive groves that seem to "sprout" from the area's rich greenery.

Firs, maples, wild pomegranates and, of course, walnuts (from where Karya comes) are predominant, but a few metres from the upper edge of the modern settlement, there is also an idyllic forest with plane trees.

While walking, you will see the ruins of the old water mills, those that once exploited the natural springs of Artemisium to serve the needs of the Kariotes and their neighbours.

It is a very easy route, even for the most beginner, that will take you to the not-so-distant past. Thanks to the complete representation of an old watermill, which explains in detail how it worked—grinding not only grains for nutritional purposes but also building materials, tobacco, and gunpowder.

For the more experienced hikers, there are now other paths to explore, either the one that starts from Karya and ends at the top of Artemisium, or the international E34, which starts from ancient Olympia, passes through the village and ends at ancient Epidaurus.

The landscape is also suitable for mountain biking enthusiasts. The rest of you can simply enjoy a walk, exploring the well-kept neighbourhoods, the courtyards and loggias of the old houses or the beautiful central square with walnut trees and hewn stones.

In the square, you will also find a fountain with cold mountain water and the Byzantine church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos, which has existed since 1230.

You will also see the statue of the Greek Independence Hero Giannakos Dagres in its forecourt. The place may not really be called Kolokotronitsi but Dagres was one of Theodoros Kolokotronis' first lieutenants and took part in the siege of Nafplio and the battles against Dramalis.

Finally, another attraction of Karya is the Venetian Castle of Panagia.

Accommodation, coffee and food

As we said at the beginning, Karya remains a quiet village. Most visitors, therefore, visit it simply for an excursion, taking advantage of its easy access from Athens. As a result, there are no organised mass accommodation infrastructures.

However, if you want to spend some time here, you will find the "Galanai House on the Sands," which functions as a mini-guest house.

For coffee, you can sit at "Kafe tis Karyas," which also serves food and has a fireplace in winter. But "Roulis" is also a popular choice, especially because of its outside tables outside, for when the weather is nice.

Finally, for food, it is recommended that you stop by the "Artemision" taverna in the central square. It has been operating since 1953 and specialises in meat, all local and cooked with love: try juicy ribs, local tiropita, and sausage.

How do you get to Karya?

Located 20 kilometres from Argos, Karya is an easily accessible destination for those who start by road from Athens: estimate that you will get here in 1 hour and 40 minutes.

After entering Corinthia, you will continue on the Corinth-Tripoli highway and exit at the Sterna interchange. From there, you will now be only 15 kilometres away.

Before returning now, it is worth taking the opposite route towards Nestani. It is a passable 7 km route (only the last 2-3 are on a dirt road), which will take you to the Brakatsaki spring and an incredible landscape with a view.

The spring's gurgling water is rich in sulphur, so it has long been considered a spa. Of course, according to patriotic beliefs, in order for its positive energy to take hold, you have to drink it on the spot, not carry it in mugs or bottles.

(Travel)

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