Travelling the slopes of Smolikas: High peaks, dense forests and villages where time has stood still

Two enchanting alpine routes in one of the most unknown mountains of Greece.

Undoubtedly, Smolikas is one of the most unexplored mountains in Greece. High peaks, steep ravines, dense forests and half-disappeared villages make up the scenery on the two slopes of the country's second-highest mountain—an enigmatic landscape.

If you find yourself in Smolikas, one thing is certain. Don't expect crowds of pedestrians and queues of cars.

Konitsa – Palioseli – Pades – Distrato

A trip around Smolikas almost always starts from Konitsa. The picturesque town of Epirus is only about 15 kilometres from the country road that runs through the southwestern slope of Smolikas.

Although the route is, without a second thought, one of the most demanding in Greece, the magnificent view and the endless natural landscape do not leave much room for doubt.

The national road that connects Konitsa with Distrato is almost parallel to the Aoos River, running through the endless ravines crossed by the cold tributaries of this wild river, which, although it originates in Greece, heads to Albania and flows into the Adriatic.

After several successive zigzag turns and a green forest that slides down the slope, the road takes you to Paleoselli. Palioselli is one of the highest villages in Greece at a height of 1,080 metres.

Its name comes from the ancient Sellos, who—as the legend goes—were expelled from their ancestral lands in ancient times and found refuge next to the Tymfai herders on the mountain, where they eventually remained.

The attraction that makes Paleoselli widely known is the so-called Pisa of Greece, or simply the church of Agia Paraskevi, which is perhaps the only building in Greece that leans.

Just like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the stone-built basilica dating back to 1864 sinks little by little into the loose ground due to its heavy architecture. As a result, it leans to one side, having a difference of only 2 degrees from the well-known Italian bell tower.

Despite its small size, Paleoselli today invests in soft tourism and attracting visitors who want to explore the dozens of mountain paths of Smolikas.

As it is very close to the top, Paleoselli is the starting point for hiking trails, and it is worth remembering that through the village, you can easily reach the two modern mountain refuges in the area.

If you just want to continue exploring the slopes of Smolikas, head further south towards Pades, leaving behind Paleoselli with its amazing view of Tymfi.

After a few hairpin turns and a dense forest, the uphill road takes you to another mountain village. At an altitude of 1,140 metres, Pades is one of the country's most mountainous and sparsely populated villages.

In winter, the permanent population of the village shrinks to just eight inhabitants, while in summer, the return of emigrants gives the village a breath of life.

Despite its small size, this mountainous settlement has a huge history, and today, it invests in ecotourism in an attempt to revitalise the population.

In Pades, you can stop for a quick break for food or rest. Also, visit the Church of the Assumption and the Panagia of Kato Mahala with relics and rare frescoes or, if you have time, see the old watermills and get a bittersweet taste of the old everyday life of Greece.

Don't forget that Pades is the last stop before the climb to the legendary Drakolimni lake of Smolikas. The ascent to the Drakolimni is via the O3 hiking trail, which is very close to the village and takes you to the lake high on the summit.

Don't forget that Pades and Paleoselli are the two villages that are in the "shadow of Smolikas" and are the start of the best-known mountain routes to the peaks.

Leaving Pades, you continue further east towards the last station of this mountainous road, Distrato. Distrato is a special village which, as its name suggests, is built on two strata.

Of course, the roads connecting Epirus and Western Macedonia are meant as two strata since the village is built on the old mountain pass that cattle breeders used and traders to go from one region to another.

Known in the Vlach language as Briaza or Vriaza, Distrato was famous for its extensive logging, the ingenuity of its inhabitants in harnessing the rushing waters and the treatment of wounded animals with sledgehammers.

Like most villages of Smolikas, Distrato was destroyed in during the German occupation, rebuilt in the 1950s and since then, had the fate of the Greek villages that saw their population decrease dramatically.

However, the village's proximity to the ski centre of Vasilitsa in Grevena has contributed to its tourist development. Several guesthouses and tavernas have appeared, highlighting the village as a well-known ecotourism destination.

If you want to combine your excursion with a relaxing stay in the heart of Smolikas, here might be the right opportunity.

You can either return to Konitsa or continue to the ski centre of Vasilitsa.

Estimate that the 46 km drive from Konitsa to Distrato takes around 1.5 hours (3 hours return), depending on how you drive. The route is even more enchanting if you plan to travel by motorbike. Before you start, just take a quick look at the weather for any contingencies.

Samarina – Fourka

Smolikas' surprises, however, do not stop here. If you find yourself on the eastern side of the mountain, you can try another mountain route that you will certainly not have done before.

Starting from the stone-built Samarina in Grevena, you take the mountain road that leads to Fourka, one of the most mountainous villages in the prefecture of Ioannina.

Since Smolikas is the natural border between Epirus and Western Macedonia, don't be surprised that all mountain routes are a continuous transition from one region to another. Perhaps the only difference is that you are driving at an altitude of more than 1,000 metres.

The provincial road that connects Samarina with Fourka runs through the alpine plateaus created on the peaks of Smolikas. A landscape that has nothing to do with the classic bucolic landscape of the Greek countryside that we all know.

Bare of dense vegetation with steep rocky peaks to the right and left, the Smolika plateau is characterised by the alpine vegetation that changes colour according to the season, the scattered snows in sunny places, the dark peaks that look scary and the black metal snow markers that testify the harsh weather conditions in the area.

Although it sounds scary, the drive through the highlands of Smolikas doesn't last long. The road quickly descends into a thick spruce forest that jumps the road and continues as far as the eye can see.

Driving through the verdant forest that wears different colours every season, you head towards Fourka, one of the most mountainous villages in Greece, at an altitude of 1,360 metres.

Fourka is one of the region's most historic and isolated villages, and certainly, a short visit will not leave you unmoved.

This strange name comes from the forks the inhabitants used to place to make it easier for travellers not to lose their orientation on the difficult mountain road. So, if you're looking for a bit of adventure, maybe you've found an alternative here.

For your return to Samarina, you can follow the same route in reverse.

The 15 km route is quite interesting, but due to the terrain of the area, it presents some technical difficulties. However, travelling by motorbike may make things a little easier.

Before you plan anything, ensure you have already secured accommodation in Samarina. Don't forget to look at the weather conditions, which change very easily in the area.

Yianni Koutroudi is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.

READ MORE: Grevena, the authentic town with mountain beauty that fascinates.