I admire shops that take a chance and open in off-the-beaten-path, somewhat forgotten neighbourhoods of Athens that don't have much to offer in terms of going out. Beyond the risk, it also shows confidence in what they will do.
This is the case with Taverna ton Filon in Kolonos. When they opened about a year ago, I don't think there were many who would have thought that within a short period of time, all of Athens would be looking to book a table there.
Maybe I sound like I am exaggerating, but that's what happened. A year later, booking a table is still difficult.
Of course, the fact that its owners, Yiannis Mousios and Giorgos Kontorizos, have not increased the tables, even though they can, contributes to the demand. However, it also allows them to serve their guests how they want: as friends.
The taverna's story is old and told a thousand times. It has a wonderful atmosphere, and, of course, the food is indeed taverna style but with a twist and a more modern look.
The simplicity of the cuisine, which is present in deliciousness, can also be seen in the nice chickpeas that contain tahini and plenty of rosemary. The same goes for the hilopites with wild mushrooms and kefalotiri.
It is a warm Sunday meal that you're happy to share and enjoy. Of course, pepper is needed to make it a little tastier.
The goat with giouvetsi also had a deep flavour, the meat melting in every forkful. It called for a little extra grated cheese, but even without it, it was one of the dishes I would order next time if it were on the menu.
And I mention this because the menu changes almost daily depending on what they find in the market and the appetites of Giannis, who is in charge of the kitchen.
The tuna "pancetta" with lemon was also delicious. It was a little overcooked for my liking, but the tuna still retained that nice fatty element, adding charm to the dish. On the other hand, the herbs, slightly boiled, complemented the fish in the best way.
Loud conversations and laughter can be heard in the background, and the music contributes to the relaxed atmosphere.
Whether you like it or not, you somehow become part of a large group—that group of friends who come to enjoy a relaxed evening and good food.
Info: 66 Argos, Kolonos, tel. 2105127506
Vasilis Dimaras is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
READ MORE: Travolta: New look for 1 of the top seafood restaurants in Athens.