Outdoor dining areas in Naoussa harbor, Paros, have been directly impacted as Greek restaurants are compelled to remove mussels from their menus following a significant crisis at the country’s mussel farms.
The rise in sea temperatures has drastically reduced mussel production, depriving traditional Greek cuisine of a staple ingredient. In October, Aegean Sea mussel farmer Anastasios Zakalkas discovered the devastating effects on his harvest—most of his mussel shells were empty. “The destruction we’ve experienced means we don’t know how we’ll sustain ourselves next year,” Zakalkas told Reuters, highlighting the challenges facing those whose livelihood solely depends on mussel farming.
This summer’s heatwaves drove sea temperatures in the Thermaic Gulf, Greece’s primary mussel-producing region, past 30°C, causing a 90% reduction in the 2024 mussel harvest, according to farmers. Marine biologist Kostas Koukaras remarked that this is the second such crisis within three years, a frequency previously thought to be a once-in-a-decade event. He emphasizes that the situation underlines the current reality of climate change, stressing the need for governmental support to help producers manage climate-induced expenses.
Typically, Greece produces over 20,000 tonnes of mussels annually, much of it for export, making the seafood industry a significant contributor to the country’s economy, valued at over £500 million in 2021. However, for mussel-farming communities in Kymina, like Zakalkas’, the future is fraught with uncertainty. While some are petitioning for state compensation, others consider abandoning the trade altogether.
Sotiris Tsaros, another mussel farmer, expressed concerns over the potential recurrence of this crisis, stating that if it happens again next year, many farmers will have to leave the industry, erasing decades of their work.
The mussel shortage has notably affected restaurants in Greece’s northern regions, where dishes featuring mussels are popular among tourists and locals alike. The decline has forced eateries to remove traditional mussel dishes, such as mussels in tomato sauce with feta, from their offerings.
While countries like Spain have also experienced mussel fatalities, Greece has been more adversely affected due to the concentration of its mussel farms in a single region. Scientists warn that unless global warming is addressed, such challenges are likely to persist.