When it became known in the spring of 2023 that Kostas Diamantis, the man who had been at the helm of Taverna tou Oikonomou for the last 25 years, handed it over to new owners, everyone talked about the end of an era for this emblematic hangout.
The fullness of time had arrived at Taverna tou Oikonomou, and a new and unknown book on the history of the taverna was opening its pages.
A year and a half later, at the historic hangout on Kydantidon Street in Ano Petralona, everything continues to flow at the same pace in a charming coexistence of yesterday and today.
Entering the inside of the taverna, everything looks the same. And yet. An almost invisible condition has refreshed the space. The changes are subtle but essential. Most of them are structural.
The floors, ceilings, walls, and toilets have a new shine. The works of great Greek painters and intellectuals of the time, all patrons of the taverna, always adorn its walls.
The paintings of Fassianos, Psychopedis, and Stathopoulos, as well as the shelves with Kostis Papagiorgis's books, are always there.
The food—traditional Greek food—remains at the centre of the taverna. The precise and discreet interventions aim to upgrade the taste identity of the dishes.
The excellent sourdough bread comes daily from Kora Bakery on Anagnostopoulou Street in Kolonaki. The raw materials they use have been completely upgraded through exclusive collaborations with small producers.
Pots and pans of cooked food radiate the same deliciousness.
The trademark ladera, braised rooster, dolmades, rabbit stifado, and baked lamb with quince potatoes have been a culinary ritual for Athenians for many decades.
"Leaving the most sensitive part of the taverna, its food and its people, untouched was the biggest promise we made to Kostas Diamantis when we took over the taverna," Vassilis Bakasis, the right-hand man of the new owner, Filippos Tsagridis, said.
"We put up a great fight from the first day to convince the patrons and lovers of Oikonomou's kitchen that we will not change anything. We were here every day at all hours, chatting with them, gaining their trust minute by minute," Vassilis said.
"Today, we are reaping the fruits of our efforts. Now we know most of them by their first names," he added.
The wine list is the biggest and most noticeable change to Taverna tou Oikonomou. From zero base at the beginning, today, it counts 180 bottles exclusively from the Greek vineyard, among them some rare labels and vintages.
This impressive list enables old and new customers to learn about Greek wines of conventional and natural vinification while enjoying them at very affordable prices. Vassilis's most interesting news comes to our lips as we dine and chat.
"We have decided to slowly and steadily create four small and flexible menus that will be added like seasonal dishes to our main menu," he said.
"For example, we will put a soup of the day in the winter months, pork and celeriac, a different stew, and other dishes reflecting seasonality and spicing up Greek cuisine.
"In the second year, we will try to draw from the taste chest of Oikonomou's forgotten dishes that were measured in the old years, which, fortunately for us, our cook knows about.
As I look once more at the famous silkscreens on the walls, I notice some small additions. I ask Vassilis about them.
"It makes us especially happy when new artists come and ask us to present some of their work in the taverna," he said.
"We are slowly trying to build a core of new artists who will periodically present parts of their work here. Our goal is for Oikonomou to regain its dual status. To once again become a centre of art and intellect," Vassilis added.
A galaktoboureko and a ravani with ice cream come to our table. New sweets are both in the catalogue. To be honest, I didn't expect to find pan sweets here, nor would I look for them, but looking at the surrounding tables, there is one everywhere.
Leaving, I reflect on what I saw and tasted one more evening.
Taverna tou Oikonomou certainly has something special. It is part of the city's DNA. You can feel the pulse at every table in the tavern.
This development, in every aspect (even on its brand new website), testifies to the speed of our time, only that in this particular case, it aims to improve and not alter our country's culinary and cultural product.
Info: Kydantidon 32 & Troon, Ano Petralona, tel. 210 3467555
Grigoris Philippatos is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
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