A cafe since 1879 in Tzoumerka: Dimitris Kostadimas, a treasure keeper of memories

When we reached Matsouki, the sun was dipping behind the high peaks of the Tzoumerka, painting the sky in shades of orange and purple.

Our route through the villages of Aspropotamos and the passage of Baros in Tzoumerka had left signs of fatigue, but the magic of the landscape made every kilometre worthwhile.

Together with the photographer Konstantinos Sofikitis, we had already started to explore the village's narrow streets when we met Dimitris Kostadimas.

“Are you looking for something? Can I help?”

His voice came full of kindness and genuine interest. On his face, a broad smile seemed to welcome each visitor like an old friend. We didn't know it at the time, but we had just met one of the most authentic guardians of Matsouki history.

The tireless guardian of the village

Dimitris is a man in constant motion. You see him traversing the village's cobbled streets with a vigour that belies his age, ready to offer help to anyone who needs it.

He is the man who knows every corner, every story, every secret of this mountain settlement.

The historic cafe: A living museum

"Let me show you something," he says, and he leads us to a building that stands proudly in the heart of the village.

It is the oldest coffee shop in Matsouki, a place whose history has unfolded since the distant 1879. It was opened by his great-grandfather, Konstantinos, a multi-talented man who combined the art of coffeemaking with tailoring.

"He worked in the cafe in the summers, and in the winters, he went to Domoko and worked as a tailor making woollen trousers for the shepherds," Dimitris explains to us as we enter the space that he has now turned into his personal retreat.

"They had to be durable to withstand the cold and harsh mountain life," he added.

Pictures and memories on the walls

The space is a living museum. On the walls, dozens of framed photos tell the story of the village through different eras.

Every picture has its own story, and Dimitris knows them all.

An old wood-burning stove stands like a faithful sentinel in the corner, ready to warm the space on cold winter evenings. A simple bed testifies that this is now his home.

The choice of the heart

"I'd rather stay here than go down to the house," he confesses to us, his eyes shining as he looks around. "Here, I am more central. I will always see someone. Life is in the street, conversation, and meeting."

His words echo the wisdom of a man who understands that life's true essence lies in human relationships.

We sit for quite some time. I try to understand the space and its disparate elements.

Evening stories and memories

Dimitris shares stories from the rich journey of his family's coffee shop—stories about weddings and festivals, political debates, and everyday moments that have been etched in the place's collective memory.

Each of his words is a mosaic in the mosaic of local history.

Morning tour of the village

The next morning, he takes us for an extensive tour of the village. We walk the cobbled streets, and each stop has its own story.

We stop in his garden, a little paradise where he grows cabbages and various salad greens. His hands, who served coffee and tsipouro in the cafe for years, now care for the land with the same dedication.

Between two worlds

"Winter here is hard," he tells us as he looks at his plants. "I will go down to Ioannina when it gets cold."

But even as he says it, you hear a hint of nostalgia in his voice for the village he hasn't even left. Because Matsouki is not just the place he lives but part of his identity.

The custodian of tradition

Dimitris Kostadimas is more than just a resident of Matsouki. He is the living link between the village's past and present.

In his face, the history of a place that refuses to surrender to oblivion is reflected, and in his daily movements—from watering the garden to welcoming visitors—you see the love of a man who has chosen to be the guardian of the memory of his place.

Leaving Matsouki, we carry with us not only the images of the imposing mountains of Tzoumerka but also the life lesson of a man who reminded us that a place's true beauty is found in the people who keep it alive with their love and devotion.

When winter covers Tzoumerka with its white veil, Dimitris will descend on Ioannina. But his heart will remain here, in the old cafe, among the photos and memories, waiting for spring to return to the place he loves and that keeps him alive with his presence.

Dimitris Stathopoulos is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.

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