Polyaigos: The Aegean oasis that maintains its inspiring untouched character

For most who holiday frequently in the Cyclades, Polyaigos remains an unrecognisable name or place. However, it is a must-see attraction for those visiting Milos and Kimolos.

Indeed, Polyaigos impresses at first glance. Even before you get close to it, you're full of admiration for the white vertical rocks, which stand imposingly above the sea and look like an oasis in the blue, pelagic waters of the Aegean.

Polyaigos was a point of contention between Milos and Kimolos during ancient times as to whether it belonged to the territory of one island or the other.

Even today, you will often find it among the places recommended for swimming when visiting Milos, even though in terms of sheer distances, it is closer to Kimolos, to which it belongs administratively: separated only by 1.07 nautical miles from its southeastern coast, while the distance to the eastern side of Milos is 3.77 nautical miles.

An island with untouched character

Although it was also known as Polivos or Hyolivos in the past, Polyaigos has dominated over the years due to the abundant goats still found here (Polyaigos means "many goats").

With an area of ​​​​18,146 sq. km. and a coastline of 17 kilometres, Polyaigos is considered the largest uninhabited island of the Cyclades. However, this is inaccurate since the 2011 census recorded a pair of livestock farmers as permanent residents.

Indeed, Eleftheria and Petros Marianos don't just graze their animals here: they come and go to Kimolos, but they also maintain a house known as Tis Panagias T'Avlaki – acting as an informal 'port' of the island since it is a deep bay relatively protected from strong winds.

In fact, Polyaigos is said to have had once a population of 170 people. However, this population steadily decreased over the years until 1972, when most of the inhabitants left.

However, every August 22, their descendants and many Kimoliates flock to the island to celebrate Panagia Poliviatissa, the island church, around which a famous festival is held.

In the northwestern part of the island dominates the aforementioned church of Panagia Poliviatissa. It is a descendant of an older monastery dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin, which we know was founded in 1622 and now stands in ruins.

To the east, at Cape Mascula, rises a lighthouse with a height of 9 metres. Built in 1898 on a hill at an altitude of (approximately) 130 metres, it now works automatically, and its beam can reach up to 22 miles.

In addition, there are two abandoned quarries where tracheitis—a hard volcanic rock useful for making millstones—and silvery barite were mined.

Polyaigos is not dry, but the vegetation tends to be low: apart from some cedars and tamarisks towards the coast, it is dominated by phrygana and evergreen shrubby plants.

In addition, due to the rare fauna that lives here, the island has joined the European Natura 2000 network.  However, the inclusion in Natura 2000 status is not the only reason for the untouched character that distinguishes Polyaigos, impressing those who come here.

The beaches of Polyaigos

With 27 kilometres of coastline, Polyaigos has many beaches, which are honoured by those who visit it in summer. Of course, all are unorganised. At the same time, the beaches are full of rocks in strange but charming formations.

There are also sea caves, the most famous of which is Fanara on the north side of the island, with its large holes in the roof: it has been captured in many photographs, as its size allows boats to sail.

Due to its proximity to Kimolos, Polyaigos's most popular beach is Pano Mersini (or Myrsini), overlooking the rocky island of Manolonisi. Its white sand and calm, turquoise waters, generally protected from the strong Aegean winds, have made it a popular summer destination for many private boats and yachts.

A little bit further south is Kato Mersini, a strip of (also) white sand with a wonderful sea.

For hiking lovers, a path leads from Pano Myrsini to the aforementioned beach of Panagia T'Avlaki: It takes about one hour of walking to go and another hour to return. However, although the route is considered fairly easy, it's probably best to do it with a local who knows it well (especially if you're a first-time visitor).

Sailing south of Kato Mersini, you will see the small beach of Mantra, which has massive white rocks resembling sculptures. However, you will be impressed by the rock islands of Kalogeri, in whose bay, near the ruins of the old mines, you will find a small beautiful beach.

In the southwestern part of the island, another famous beach is the so-called Blue Waters. It has white sand and transparent blue waters with a crystalline feel. Many consider it one of the Cyclades' most beautiful "hidden" beaches.

How to get there?

You can easily reach Polyaigos from Milos or Kimolos if you have your own speedboat or sailboat. After all, as we said before, you will see that at the height of the Greek summer, its most famous beaches are flooded with yachts.

In fact, many famous people have visited the island, like the former president of the USA, George Bush Sr, the current King Charles of Britain, and Italian star Monica Bellucci.

However, you'll find plenty of boats and water taxi excursions if you don't have a boat. Many start from Psathi in neighbouring Kimolos or Adamas and Pollonia in Milos, but some come from Folegandros, travelling 11.5 nautical miles, or Sifnos (from Platy Gialos Marina).

Since the beaches of Polyaigos are unorganised, you should bring umbrellas, hats, sunscreen, and maybe cold water with some snacks if not provided in your tour amenities.

You should also check the local wind forecast, as most beaches are almost inaccessible when it's windy.

READ MORE: Alypa: The enchanting port of Mani.