Athinaikon: A 92-year-old, rare culinary landmark in Athens

This ouzerie has been operating continuously for 92 years, and generations of famous and unknown Athenians have sat and eaten at its tables.

Athinaikon is the creation of two Smyrnians, Odysseus Proveleggiadis and Antonis Mantaneas, who arrived in Athens as refugees during the interwar period.

The taverna began its journey from Santaroza Street in 1932. Logically, its first patrons were lawyers and litigants as it was in the judicial heart of the Greek capital, but little by little, the reputation of his delicious mezes significantly expanded its clientele.

It continued under the same ownership for 38 years until 1970, when it passed to Panagiotis Stathakos. Then, in 1981, when the discussion of the courts being transferred to the former Evelpidon School already started, it passed to its current owners, Argyris Porphyriou and Costas Papadopoulos, who, as students, worked at Athinaikon.

It was moved in 1985 to Themistokleous Street, at its junction with the University, because the old building and its neighbours were demolished to make way for "Santaroza Square."

Athinaikon's new home is a spacious, high-ceilinged hall with a graceful loft in the background and a black-and-white marble floor.

The photos and old advertisements on the walls, especially the large period painting of Athena Street with the tram, create a nostalgic mood. The—mostly middle-aged—waiters, with their courtesy but above all with their unpretentious care, make everyone feel comfortable, whether they are there for the first time or regulars, the latter being many, many.

As befits an ouzerie, the extensive menu includes seafood and delicious meat dishes. Of course, cheese, salads, and dips have a special place.

Making a valiant effort, we managed to try the properly fried atherina, which retained the crunchy texture of its flesh, the crispy fried mussels with spicy sauce, and the famous shrimp-crab croquettes, an example of a successful pan and taste balance.

This is a valiant effort because we had already enjoyed a homemade taramosalata, a hearty potato salad with olives, carrot, egg, onion, tomato and parsley, dressed with a delicious mustard sauce, and some well-made dolmades, with properly boiled rice, herbs and tender vine leaves.

Avoiding the temptation of the very interesting and curated wine list, we stubbornly stuck to a "fiver" (ok, 200ml) of Pitsiladi ouzo, which paired the dishes nicely.

We are left with that beautiful feeling, which makes you want to come back tomorrow to try all the dishes you didn't have room for.

PS A few years ago, in 2013, the more "restaurant" sister of Athinaikon opened at 34 Mitropoleos Street. It serves the same tasty dishes but with some additions adapted to Syntagma.

Info: Themistokleous 2 & Panepistimiou, Omonia, tel. 210 3838485, 210 3835905

Every day, from 11:30 to 00:30, except Sunday.

The bill will vary between €20 and €30 per person depending on the dishes.

Photos: Katerina Kabiti

Andreas Androulidakis is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos. 

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