Weekend in Ermoupoli of Syros, the most stately town of the Cyclades

Ermoupoli, Syros

Ermoupoli is the most stately town in the Cyclades. Its commercial and industrial past has given it incredible architecture you will never admire enough. As Travel points out, Ermoupoli is one of the most Instagrammable cities of the Cyclades, as in every narrow and every alley, there is also a well-kept neoclassic mansion or a charming building.

It will take you between 2 and 3.5 hours to get from Piraeus to Syros, depending on whether you travel by fast or slow ferry. Even if you've been to the island before, this view of Ermoupoli, with its colourful buildings and Ano Syros, with the church of St George's Cathedral on top, is always just as enchanting.

Ermoupoli, Syros

We recommend that you stay low in the city rather than in Ano Syros to be close to the sea and gain time for swimming during your two days. Ermoupoli has a beach near the Asterias in the Vaporia neighbourhood, a concrete platform from where you can swim in deep and crystal-clear waters. Next to it is a bar with music that offers coffee, snacks, and drinks while lying on umbrellas and sunbeds.

There is another platform before the Asterias, which the locals call "Tou Laki"; here, things are more relaxed. There are only a few straw umbrellas in the municipality, so if you want to find one, be sure to go early.

Another spot for diving in the same style as the Asterias is at the Merchant Marine Academy of Syros, the "Waves". If you want classic type beaches, you will go outside Ermoupoli. The closest is Azolimnos, sandy and organised.

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Of course, the island also has other beaches, Agathopes, Galissa, and Kini, perfect for watching the sunset, Megalo Gialos and others. Have an appetite for diving, and the island is full of beaches.

This morning until noon because in the afternoon, there is an endless shift until the evening. First, you should go up to Ano Syra, as the locals call it, the old town that will take you back to the Middle Ages and the time of the Franks.

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The winding narrows with the big bougainvillea trees, the well-kept houses that count years and years of life, the "steady", the catholic church with the orthodox element and also the excellent view of Hermoupoli make the climb to Ano Syros imperative. Here, you will also see the house, now a museum, of Markos Vamvakaris, one of the most important representatives of the rebetiko genre.

Ano Syros, Ermoupoli, Syros

Don't miss visiting the 13th-century Catholic Church of Saint George: it is a large complex that includes the church, the bell tower, the baptistery, the sacristy, the hospitality hall, the Historical Archives building, the episcopal palace and a ruined house. However, you should also visit the orthodox church of Agios Nikolaos of the Poor from the 16th century. After you finish the sergeant, you can rest in a small tavern overlooking the port.

In the lower city now, you have more work to do. First, you will go to Miaouli Square to see the City Hall, a work by Ernesto Ziller and a jewel of the city; go inside to admire the statues and paintings and sit on the beautiful patio with its checkerboard floor, wooden chairs and marble tables. Here, the Archaeological Museum of Syros is also housed, with a separate entrance on the back side of the town hall. The exhibits that stand out are from Kastri and Chalandriani, two of the most important prehistoric sites of the Cyclades, as well as the sculptures, inscriptions and tombstones from the ancient city of Syros.

Close by is the Apollo Theater, an excellent architectural building from the 1860s. The designs are by the architect Pietro Sambo and have elements from at least four Italian theatres, the Scala in Milan, the "San Carlo" theatre in Naples, the Academic Theater in Castelfranco and the "Teatro della Pergola" in Florence. Until 19/8, it hosts the 19th Cycladic International Classical Music Festival, while there are theatrical and musical performances afterwards. It is a unique experience to watch a show here, and the interior alone transports you to another entirely different era.

Apollo theater syros

But you will also go to the port to visit the Cyclades Art Gallery in the renovated warehouses of the 19th century and also the Industrial Museum of Syros, where the entire industrial history of the island unfolds, which is by no means small. The walks in Ermoupolis are a pleasure thanks to its architecture, and it is worth going around as much of it as possible. Of course, you should also include the Vaporia quarter, where captains, mainly shipowners, have mansions, a charming neoclassical of the previous century. But also stop at the church of Agios Nikolaos, built in the middle of the 19th century, which is extremely impressive inside and out.

City Hall/Photo: Municipality of Syros-Ermoupoli

You will go out to the port for a coffee with a sea view to gaze at the arriving ships. Amiral is among the most excellent cafes, with its youthful style and stylish Okio. Inside the city, Jar is a perfect all-day proposition for breakfast but also for fabulous cocktails in a relaxed environment in the evening; the Corner Cafe and Barrio in Miaouli Square are also beautiful options, while a classic choice for dessert and coffee is Hellenic. For gelato, you will go to the Italian shop, Daidadi, who puts a lot of love into his art.

Accommodation:

Apollonion Palace: a renovated 19th-century neoclassical converted into a boutique hotel overlooking the Aegean. (Tel: 2281089056)

Arion: in the Vaporia district, this is also a renovated 19th-century mansion with a chic atmosphere. (Tel: 2281081749)

Hermes: you will find it in front of the beachfront of Ermoupoli. Beautiful and very neat. (Tel: 2281083011)

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Food:

Ta Ioannina: in a central spot on the seafront in Kanari Square, serves wraps, steaks and some stews. (Kanari Square, Tel: 2281082994)

Maritsa's Archontariki: in a narrow street near Miaouli square, a well-kept restaurant that serves grilled meats of the hour as well as cooked dishes such as octopus stew, duvets shrimps, etc. (Roidi Emmanuel 8, 2281086771)

Petrino: a beautiful place with good food. You will find seasonal roasts, stews, risotto and fresh salads. (Klonos & Kyparissou St. 9, Tel: 2281087427)

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