As streets across Greece fill with students parading in traditional costumes to honour the heroes of the 1821 Greek War of Independence on March 25, renowned Greek tailor Aristides Tzonevrakis shares his insights into the art of crafting historical garments, with a particular fondness for the iconic fustanella.
Tzonevrakis, a master of traditional Greek attire, reflects on his career, his international partnerships, and the enduring legacy of Greece’s cultural heritage.
For Tzonevrakis, the fustanella – complete with its three vests, the formal attire of officers rather than a warrior’s garb – stands as the quintessential garment to celebrate Greece’s liberation. “There are many local costumes across Greece, but I consider the fustanella the pinnacle of traditional clothing,” he notes. The tailor, who runs “AristoTechnima” in Argos and was recently honoured with the Art and Cultural Heritage Award by the Argolida Chamber of Commerce, emphasises that no single costume dominates today. Instead, people choose outfits inspired by their favourite revolutionary heroes, such as “Bouboulina,” evoking the Spetses attire, or “Papaflessas,” often imagined through the lens of James Paris’ period films – though, as Tzonevrakis points out, Papaflessas wore a fustanella in battle.
Since 2002, Tzonevrakis has dedicated himself to preserving and reviving traditional Greek dress. Among his most cherished projects was studying the doulama (a long tunic) of General Dimitrios Tsokris from Argos. “I was called to create a pattern for an exhibition at the Benaki Museum in Athens,” he recalls. “Holding a documented piece, knowing it was worn by that specific person as his formal attire – it’s overwhelming. Replicating its exact pattern, not just guessing from a photograph, is a profound experience.”
Offering a brief tour of Greece’s regional costumes, Tzonevrakis explains how Ottoman rule shaped clothing traditions. “Under Turkish occupation, sultanic decrees dictated what people could wear. In favoured regions, brighter and more elaborate garments were permitted if one could afford them, while stricter rules applied elsewhere. An enslaved person couldn’t outshine their master,” he says. Post-liberation, the fustanella became the standardized men’s attire in southern Greece, from Central Greece downward, obscuring earlier local variations. In contrast, northern regions like Macedonia, freed later during the Balkan Wars, preserved distinct male costumes – from Episkopi to Florina and Roumlouki. “Northern Greece offers more insight into men’s regional dress,” he adds.
Women’s attire in the south, however, resisted standardisation. The urban “Amalia” style, introduced after independence, never fully displaced diverse village costumes. “It’s hard to trace the oldest women’s garments in each area,” Tzonevrakis admits. “For example, in Corinthia’s Perachora, we haven’t found an apron to match its stunning yet elusive costume. In Argos, some women unearthed aprons from old chests, but we can’t confirm they belong to the same era or outfit.”
Tzonevrakis’ passion has taken him beyond Greece’s borders. His workshop recently collaborated with luxury brands like Zeus+Dione and Christian Dior, blending tradition with modernity. In 2021, marking 200 years since the revolution, Dior’s collection paid tribute to Greece, with Tzonevrakis crafting a classic bar jacket adorned with intricate terziko embroidery. “We’ve influenced and inspired people globally since that partnership,” he says proudly.
Despite economic challenges and a once-dwindling trade, Tzonevrakis’ perseverance has paid off. “When I started in 2002, this craft was dying. Now, there’s renewed interest – even looms, once discarded, are returning to homes,” he observes. His vision? To establish a school to pass down his knowledge. “It’s vital to share this craft,” he says, though he admits, “I’m still a craftsman, not a teacher. The idea is in its early stages.”
From Argos, where he honours his late mentor Konstantinos Gkikas, Tzonevrakis continues to weave Greece’s past into its future, one stitch at a time. As the nation celebrates its independence today, his work stands as a testament to the enduring power of tradition on a global stage.