One of the usual questions that friends and acquaintances ask me is: "Where can we find good pizza?" Although many restaurants and street food shops in Athens make Italian food, most are not good.
Le Pizze di San Gennaro in Nea Smyrni is the new culinary home of pizzaiolo Marco Zenaboni and is an absolute standout.
I had met Marco years before at another neighbourhood pizzeria, Bella Napoli in Neos Kosmos. There, I tried his fluffy dough and admired his art.
But, about three years ago, he left for Dubai, taking a short break to return to Athens in 2023 and open his new store. He named it after the patron saint of Naples – although he hails from Italy's north.
He installed a wood-fired oven and started making his dough, as he had known for many years. Flour, water, salt, a little yeast, and it's ready—simple, the way they make it in Naples. Let it rest for at least 24 hours. Sometimes, a little more, depending on the weather (humidity, heat, etc.).
Then he opens it on his marble counter, covers it with the ingredients he brings from his homeland, and bakes it. The result is a mouth-watering pizza with foamy dough and an attractive rim that gets deliciousness from the wood burning in the oven.
For example, Margherita has the freshness of basil, the delicious tomato, and the soft feel of mozzarella.
Adamo & Eva may have thicker dough, but it's just as delicious. The dried fig is combined with the melted gorgonzola and the prosciutto, which comes richly at the end.
Vesunio plays with the intense flavour of n'duja and the sweetness of the yellow tomato.
Finally, Mario Merola combines three white cheeses (ricotta, mozzarella, provola) with crispy pieces of pancetta, giving a delicious result.
Let me tell you here that pasta is not on the menu, only as a dish of the day. So, if you are lucky and there is fresh pasta on the day you visit, don't leave it out of the order.
Leave some room for the tiramisú that Marco makes. It is a pure sin—sweet as it should be, with house-made savoiardi that have not been watered down by coffee and soft, fresh mascarpone cream.
If you are at a big party, don't make the mistake of asking for one, you will regret it.
Info:
172 Efxinou Pontou, Nea Smyrni, tel. 210 9339 127
20-25 euros with a drink
Vasilis Dimaras is a columnist for Cantina. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
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