Chef Peter Conistis, The Godfather of Greek

He pioneered modern Greek dining, cooked for the Athens Olympics and shaped Australia’s culinary palate, yet chef Peter Conistis finds his truest expression at a table by the sea at Ammos.

The evening sun casts golden light across the sand when I arrive at Ammos, the waterfront restaurant that earned Peter Conistis his latest chef's hat within weeks of opening. Through the glass doors, I can see him as he pauses at tables, shares a laugh with staff, checks a plate heading out from the kitchen. This is Peter Conistis in his element - not commanding from afar, but present, engaged, utterly at home.

 

When he finally sits down across from me, he apologises profusely for "running around like a headless ...", trailing off with a self-deprecating laugh. It's this immediate warmth, this absence of pretence, that makes you forget you're sitting with the man who pioneered modern Greek cuisine in Australia, who cooked at the 2004 Athens Olympics opening ceremony, who has been crowned "the Godfather of Greek" and the person behind Sydney's best Greek restaurants.

"Having that moniker?" he says, shifting slightly when I bring it up and ask him how he feels about it. "I'm okay with it. I mean, it's not that I refer to it - others have said it. That's not me."

It's classic Conistis. Deflecting praise even as his achievements tower around us. This is, after all, the chef who opened Cosmos in 1993 and, within three months, earned the first chef’s hat ever awarded to a Greek restaurant in the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. It was also the first time a Greek restaurant had even been mentioned in the guide. The man who wrote his first cookbook by year's end, published simultaneously in Australia, the UK, and the US. The chef whose hats have followed him through every venture - from Eleni's (two hats), to Omega (where he achieved the unprecedented feat of three hats in one space), Alpha, and now Ammos.

 

Mediterranean Modernism

"It's been a year since we opened Ammos," Peter reflects. "That's a great thing, you know, because it's onwards and upwards."

The space, designed by DS17's creative director Paul Papadopoulos, creates an immediate sense of transport. Step through the doors and Sydney falls away. You're on a Greek island, complete with whitewashed walls and views that stretch to the horizon. It's Papadopoulos' signature "Mediterranean Modernism" - a style he's more than perfected throughout their long collaboration.

"Paul has free reign," Conistis explains. "Paul and I have a most amazing relationship, and it's a rare thing. There's like a synergy there between us. We'll sit down and talk about things and, the feel that I have for the restaurant and what I hope to achieve from it. And then Paul goes for it and he always gets it right. He always gets it right."

 

 

 

 

 

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Their partnership spans Alpha, Beta Bar, Ammos, and now Ela Ela at The Bristol, with more in the pipeline that Conistis can only hint at with a knowing laugh. Papadopoulos' design - those signature Greek-inspired curves and arches, the fluted marble bars, the bespoke lighting - create spaces that seduce before you've even seen a menu.

But for all the architectural poetry, what matters most to Conistis is the human element and giving diners an experience that feels unmistakenly Greek. "When you walk out onto the terrace out the courtyard on level three of the restaurant, you really are transported to Greece in that sense. The feeling, it's just… It's intoxicating. You know what I mean?"

From Law Books to Lamb

The path to becoming Sydney's Greek culinary godfather began, improbably, in a law lecture theatre. "I studied two semesters of law," he confirms when I ask about it. "I remember walking out of a tort lecture thinking, 'I don't care about this.'" He switched to communications, but even that was just marking time.

"Absolutely definitely," he says emphatically when I suggest family influenced his career choice. "My mother taught me how to make all of the intricate sauces." His earliest memories? "Standing on a chair at home making Greek coffee for my mum and dad."

His father Kyriacos, who worked on the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme, would cook "Greek fried rice" but with tomato, eggplant, and zucchini instead of soy sauce. This playful fusion, this fearless mixing of cultures, would become the foundation of Conistis' entire philosophy.

Three months after walking out of that law lecture, he opened Cosmos – a bold move that he once described to media as "more balls than brains." “Did I actually say that?” Peter laughed when reminded.

The 32-seater in East Sydney was immediately different. "I'd opened the restaurant and a few months later, I received an invitation to the Good Food Guide Chef’s Hat Awards. And I was never a trained chef - I did all of this. I taught myself, and I created something."

When the envelope arrived announcing Cosmos had won a Chef's Hat, Conistis went to his manager: "Um, we've won a Chef's Hat. What's a Chef's Hat?"

The innocence didn't last long. By the end of 1993, he'd published "New Greek Cuisine." Within years, he was redefining what Greek food could be in Australia. His signature scallop moussaka - now legendary - came about through pure serendipity. "[Seafood supplier] John Susman brought some scallops in to try. I was working in the kitchen later making taramasalata and the flavours were still in my mouth and I thought, 'that might go with this'".

The Olympic Moment

In 2004, Conistis was invited to cook at the Athens Olympics opening ceremony, an opportunity that would earn him worldwide recognition. It remains, he says, one of the highlights of his career. But characteristically, he doesn't dwell on it. There are new mountains to climb.

“Look, you work hard, you know. And you can never rest on your laurels. It’s ever revolving in this industry,” he says, reflecting on the drive that has fuelled his decades in the kitchen. That same restlessness has propelled him from one groundbreaking restaurant to the next, each pushing boundaries in its own way.

After eleven years at Alpha, he took a break before embarking on a new chapter with Ammos. It marked a shift from the city dining scene he had long been part of, to Sydney’s south and a change he describes as unexpectedly energising.

“When I opened Ammos, it felt like a whole new journey,” he says. “It was amazing. We opened it, and it was home.”

A New Golden Age?

Some have called this moment the golden age of Greek cuisine in Australia. Does Conistis agree?

“No. I don’t believe it is the golden age for Greek cuisine in Australia,” he replies after a pause. “To say this would be to insinuate we have made it.

“I believe this is only the beginning.”

Coming from the chef who almost single handedly pioneered modern Greek dining in Sydney, the remark feels less like humility and more like prophecy. For decades he stood virtually alone; now he watches with pride as a wave of new Greek restaurants emerges around him.

“It’s really competitive,” he says. “Look at the overwhelming amount of Greek restaurants that have opened in Sydney in the last 12 months. I think it’s amazing. Finally, Greeks are up there. For so long it felt like it was just me. People ask me how I feel about it and I tell them, I love it. Bring it on. The more the merrier.”

 

The Journey Home

This spirit of generosity, of celebrating rather than competing, extends to his newest ventures. At Ela Ela, the spanakopita on the menu is his mother's recipe.
"I remember she'd handmake filo pastry and my dad would gather wild greens".

The venue itself is designed for the kind of dining Conistis grew up with: "The food is designed to keep coming and coming - not like a meal that starts and stops - but so that people can stay and enjoy company with a constant stream of Greek meze."

But it's at Ammos where Conistis is doing something truly special with his Regional Nights dinner series. "I wanted to take people on a journey through Greece, starting from the bottom and working our way up. Our next night in a couple of weeks will be all about Central Greece and this event will be very close to my heart as this my family is from Nafpaktos."

The intimate dinners feature Conistis sharing personal reflections, culinary insights, and the stories behind each dish with heartfelt sincerity. "I try to keep the food authentic to the region while using fresh Australian produce. People come in and say 'I haven't eaten that since my yiayia made it for me', and that really means so much - it warms my heart. And this is the type of experience I am trying to achieve."

The upcoming Central Greece dinner on August 13 will feature dishes like macaronopita (macaroni and three cheese filo pie) and lamb shoulder kleftiko. Then on September 3, the series culminates with the Ionian Islands - "a vibrant blend of culinary romance and island elegance," featuring Corfu-style meatballs and Cephalonia three-meat pie.

The Art of Staying Grounded

What's remarkable about Conistis is how success hasn't changed his approach. His core team has been with him for decades, executive chef James Roberts for over 20 years. "I could never do it without my trusted team," he insists.

This loyalty runs both ways. "It shows a lot of respect from your clientele when they continue to come in," he explains. "Especially when people come into the restaurant and they will be speaking to my staff saying, 'I've been following Peter since his first restaurant and this is amazing to come here.' It's so touching.

“I love coming out from the kitchen and speaking to guests - hopefully they're enjoying the meal and what we're doing. I wanted to have that feel of, 'You've come into my home.'"

 

The Future Is Now

After more than three decades in the industry, at a point where many chefs might be forgiven for wanting to start to slow down, Conistis is accelerating. The Bristol project alone encompasses multiple venues: 'Ela Ela', a rooftop “Kouzina” and a Souvlaki Bar, all also under the Oscars Group umbrella. There’s talk of other projects he can’t yet discuss, of collaborations that promise to push boundaries even further.

“So much more to come,” he says with a knowing smile. “I’m still loving it. And it’s wonderful.”

"Greek meze dining is all about sharing small plates with family and friends, but it goes beyond the food. It's a way of life."
~ Peter Conistis

As I leave Ammos, walking past tables of diners who've travelled from across Sydney for a taste of Conistis' food, I think about what makes him different. It's not just the pioneering - plenty of chefs break new ground. It's not just the consistency - though few can claim hats at every restaurant they've opened.

It's the humility. The man who could rightfully claim to have changed Australian dining still describes himself as someone just trying to give people a good meal. The chef who cooked for the Olympics still comes out to check if you're enjoying your dinner. The godfather who refuses the crown.

"I'm so proud of every restaurant that I've opened," he told me. "I'm so proud of Ammos. I'm so proud of it."

I realise that's what sets Peter Conistis apart. In an industry often driven by ego and competition, he's built an empire on generosity and grace. The godfather's table, it turns out, has room for everyone.

Regional Greek Dinners at Ammos Brighton continue with Central Greece on August 13 and Ionian Islands on September 3. Bookings essential via ammosrestaurant.com.au.

 

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