They left Thessaloniki behind to live -literally- on the edge of nowhere. In a small village of only 50 inhabitants, at the northwestern end of Serres and at the foot of the green mountain range of Krousia, which is a natural border with neighbouring Kilkis.
Theodorio, literally "gift of God," may not be mentioned on many maps, however it is the end of a route in the "Wild West" of Serres.
The village seduces visitors with the beauty and magic of the wild and unadulterated nature surrounding it, with horses, cows and goats that graze carelessly on the fertile plain.
A year ago, Iouli Pilpilidou and Lefteris Eleftheriadis, partners, made the decision to settle permanently in the small village, leaving behind the intense rhythms of Thessaloniki. The decision may not have been easy, but it seems to have vindicated them.
They created with much love and passion the traditional tavern "Pirpirimi," which, apart from good food, also stands out from the live music and other cultural events that it regularly organises, attracting visitors from the surrounding area and beyond.
Iouli, who was born and raised in Sweden, comes from Theodorio and spent every summer vacation in the village as a child. As she says, she has always been emotionally attached to the beautiful place without, of course, ever crossing her mind that, at some point, she would live there permanently.
However, everything changed due to the pandemic.
"During the period of quarantine, due to COVID-19, Lefteris and I lived a long time 'isolated' in the village. We liked the rhythms of the village, and since we could work from here and Thessaloniki is relatively close, we decided to settle permanently in Theodorio," she said.
"What we wanted is to create a point of reference in the village that would give new impetus, would bring outsiders with the aim of putting it on the tourist map of the area dominated by the lake of Kerkini," said Lefteris for his part, who although comes from Veria and lived for years in Thessaloniki, he loved the place "at first sight" - as he says.
"Pirpirimi" is like a movie.
Pirpirimi, started as a classic coffee house in the Greek countryside and soon developed into a gastronomic hangout with its gourmet dishes, which are honoured by local products, such as buffalo meat and Tzoumaia sausages.
The image of the cafe-tavern refers to a movie by Theodoros Angelopoulos, and when you cross its threshold, you dare to travel back in time.
Theodorio may seem far away, perhaps due to the not so good condition of the road that leads to it. However, it is only 6 km from the village of Rodopoli, the area's main village and commercial centre, which used to be the seat of the "Kapodistrian" municipality of Kerkini.
Today, the village may be at the end of a road; however, until the early 1970s, it was a "crossing" of the only road connecting Serres with Kilkis and Thessaloniki.
The road that meanders climbs the slopes of the mountain and then descends towards Mavroplagia Kilkis was opened during the First World War by Entente forces since the area was the border of the "Macedonian Front" with the Bulgarians and the Germans of the Central Powers.
The signs from those war events, such as trenches, artillery, bridges, etc., are still evident in the area, drowned in the lush vegetation.
The old "National Road"
The route between Theodorio and Mavroplagia, about 12 km, is impressive for its beauty of the landscape and the colours in all seasons of the year.
On the border between Serres and Kilkis, the old military outpost has been converted into a hunting lodge and is the starting point for scenic routes in the mountain massif.
Since the beginning of the 1970s, when the current Kilkis - Neo Petritsiou provincial road was built, the Krousia pass fell out of favour, and few drivers now choose it.
In the past, the road was used for motor sports competitions (TEF Rally and Alexander the Great Rally) as a special route due to the area's morphology, although it has been abandoned by the authorities responsible for its maintenance.
A 'restricted road' sign has recently been put up, warning adventurers to tread carefully.
However, unadulterated beauty rewards those who attempt it. "We often see coming down from the mountain cars and motorbikes with foreign license plates that follow the route because they have heard or read about their uniqueness," says Iuli, asking the authorities to show interest in the specific road that connects two remote areas of Serres and Kilkis.
The village is built at the foot of the Krousia mountain range, which is divided to the north by Dysoro (860 m altitude) and to the south by Mavrovouni, with the highest peak at 1,197 m.
The mountains separate the lowlands of Serres and Kilkis, with the ridges forming a natural border. Krousia stands out for its strong contrasts - with ravines and ravines - as well as for its rich beech, oak, conifer forests and diverse fauna.
Paths and running water
Theodorio is an ideal destination for hiking lovers due to its low altitudes and its passability by forest roads and paths. Shorter than that, it leads to the "baths".
At this time of year, the waters are brownish due to the heavy rains that bring mud down from higher up, but as a picture, it is just as impressive. If you find yourself in Theodorio, Lefteris and Iouli will show you the path that leads to the picturesque baths.
"We want to turn the village into a destination for those looking for natural experiences. Due to the low altitudes, our mountains are ideal for hiking for the whole family. In the next period, we will clear old paths, which over the years were covered by vegetation and were lost," noted Lefteris, emphasising that nature and ecological tourism activities can be developed in the area.
The European Long Distance Trail "E6" passes through the village, which starts in Finland and ends in Samothrace.
In this context, "Pirpirimi" organises in the "Wild West" of Serres, the "Vellekroussia Festival" on the evening of Saturday, June 3, 2023, with a special live performance by Filippos Pliatsikas and Vangelis Germanos.
"An ode to the beauty of nature, a call to hope, a strength for the future of critical regions, a dot on the map of the world", as Iouli says enthusiastically about the project, adding: "Here in the small, enchanting, welcoming Theodorio, who, like something from an elf, with his wand unites Serres and Kilkis."
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