Koutouki tou Dimitris: A symbolic taverna in deep Arcadia

Koutouki tou Dimitris

Time has stopped and the atmosphere is peaceful in "Koutouki tou Dimitris" in Arcadia.

We have left Leonidio and are heading to Fokiano, one of the area's most famous and popular beaches. It's relatively early, around 10 a.m., and the landscape changes, the images are beautiful, and the stops are memorable.

Kostis is the photographer of the trip, and the truth is that at almost every turn, there is another new perspective, a beautiful image, that he must immortalise by taking photographs.

Arriving at Pigadi

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Approaching the settlement of Pigadi, located on a small plateau and at an altitude of 570 metres, the blossoming almond trees create an image you cannot forget. The settlement has almost 130 inhabitants, including five small children.

We stop on the side of the road, and Kostis, who is operating the drone, takes it off.

He asks me to drive ahead with the car while he operates from the passenger seat and takes aerial images and videos. We reach the village entrance, and I notice a beautiful little tavern on the right.

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It is so simple that it attracts the eye like a magnet.

We briefly tour the village and pass by a farm with two horses.

In a beautiful tavern

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We return and stop near the shop, "Koutouki tou Dimitris." Outside the door are a small round-iron table, two plastic chairs, two brown windows with white curtains, and a door in the middle.

That's all.

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A kind lady comes to the door. She is Mrs Katerina, who, together with her husband, Dimitris, maintains this beautiful and simple shop in the mountainous village of Arcadia on the border with Laconia.

"My husband's family has operated this shop since the mid-50s. We took it over almost ten years ago," Mrs. Katerina tells us, who we found doing cleaning and preparation work.

"We tried to keep the traditional style and serve things of our own production," she added.

The taste buds

I noticed the wild bulbs on the counter and remembered when we produced similar ones in my village in Agiannakis. It is a very difficult process as you have to dig deep to find them. Of course, their taste is such that it is worth it.

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"We pick them from the fields and serve them with lemon and oil," Katerina will tell us and serve us some.

We used to put vinegar on them, but lemon goes well with them, too. Indeed, their taste is unique.

I observe the space around me. Several objects from the village's daily life, a few tables with checkered tablecloths in white and red, and a canary.

"In the summer, we have enough tables outside. A lot of people come here for breakfast and throughout the day," she said.

Farm to table in its most authentic form

"We have chickens for eggs and grow artichokes, seasonal greens, tomatoes, and other vegetables. We try to make everything our own and prepare it with traditional recipes," Katerina said.

Katerina is calm and smiling, and she speaks with great passion and love about what she and Dimitris are doing here. We looked around the place and slowly got ready to leave.

"I'll make you two fried eggs, and then you'll be off," she said.

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Before we knew it, it was already in the pan. They were the most delicious eggs. Kostis didn't eat them. I ate them both with bread.

She also took us to the garden, where we saw ripe artichokes and the wood oven. After two days, our trip to the area came to an end. This was one of the highlights for both of them.

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Photos by Kostis Angelopoulos.

Dimitris Stathopoulos is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos

READ MORE: Thapsa in Evia: One of the most beautiful beaches in Greece.


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